~ blog ~

The Marais.  The area of Paris we love the most.  The area we stay every time we visit, and the area where we’ve slowly gotten to know some of the locals.  We like to think they love us and miss us when we’re gone…yes, we also like to dream a lot.

Rachel’s is a funny place.  

I’m not quite sure if I know (or even if it knows) where it fits into the whole Parisian culinary scheme of things, but what I did love were the smiles we received when we entered.

We are what we eat.  So I keep getting told.  So what am I if I’m addicted to yoghurt?

I even have my own yoghurt lady here in Paris.

I nearly wet my pants when she said she remembered us when we shuffled through her fromagerie door, tired and in need of a hit of dairy.  She didn’t know that of course, as I like to think I played the aloof, professional and worldly traveller.

I love the white stuff so much, I have the tiny little glass jars it comes in at home to prove it.  Some people collect stamps or teaspoons.....

Is it sad to admit that they filled a whole box when I recently moved house?

There are moments in life when you have to throw away all of your rules.  Suck up the suffering and pain for later and simply jump head first into the unknown.

This was what I did today.

I don't have an overly sweet tooth.  I tend to avoid refined sugars (in fact all sugars) where I possibly can, and you'll rarely see me order dessert (unless it's a latte or cheese platter).

But today.....

Today I took part in a taste bud journey.

Today I ate 5 desserts....in a row!

With the Marais street market bustling away just outside its door, The Broken Arm is a little refuge  away from the noise, elbow pushing and cigarette smoke.

I've got my vintage teaspoons and the most gorgeous old ceramic coiffure jar tucked safely away in my bag.

Ella Fitzgerald is playing.  Slabs of lemon poppy seed cake on the bench.  The coffee is REALLY good.  

REALLY good!

With 7 hours of solid walking under our belt, a big degustation lunch (which was pushing out said belt), and a few chosen treasures, purchased by moi, safely ensconced in my bag from the big street market which happened to be going on in the Marais, we decided that we deserved it to be wine o'clock time.  Right now.

La Manger du Marais was our wine bar of choice (well, truthfully we just happened to be walking past it when wine o'clock hit).  

With its welcoming cushioned seats, big smiling (kinda cute) waiter, delicious rose and jazzy tunes it was the perfect choice for these two weary chickadees.

Ah Paris.  Part II is definitely off to a good start.

The waiter, who only spoke to us in French must have actually understood us as he arrived a moment later with exactly what we’d ordered … two bowls of taboule aux legumes du marche and a bottle of rose wine.

Holy shit…I think we’re finally French! 

Earlier today I fell in love.

The most gorgeous vintage teapot, made in France, is now settled snuggly in my suitcase.  With its gorgeous flower detail and dark green leather handle, I handed my 30 euro over to the old French monsieur who’s cigarette hung comfortably and expertly out the side of his mouth.

Only in France.

To celebrate my new love - we ordered our third coffee of the day.  In fact, it turned out to be the best coffee of the day.

It's no secret that I love a limited menu.  I adore restaurants and cafes that have only a few select dishes lovingly made for that particular day based on the seasons and what's fresh.  Lovingly created ready for me to be inspired by.  

I love everything about this place.  

From the bonjour we received upon walking through the door, the gorgeous styling inside, to the organic food that greeted me.

This place is not about fancy food.  It's real food.

This tiny "hole in the wall" coffee shop in Paris gets a lot of social media attention.

It was on our "must try" list, so when we stumbled upon it by accident one beautiful sunny day, we pulled up a stool and ordered our coffee.

It was ok.

Maybe our hopes were too high.  Maybe we're becoming too French and no longer use to such a strong flavoured coffee.  Whatever the answer, we've been, we've tried....c'est tout! 

We have found a winner people!

Yes.  A bold statement, but I think I have found one of the loveliest coffees I've actually had in Paris.... EVER.  

If you wander down an almost deserted little lane way in the 6th arrondissement

in Paris, you will, I promise you, find wonderful eggs Benedict, friendly service and creamy, smooth, lip licking coffee.

Eggs and Co

Did I mention the coffee?

If you've been by Chit Chat Chomp in the past, you're probably wondering where my whole attitude towards sugar has gone.

Yes, I'll be the first to admit that it has flown out the window.  In fact, I don't think it boarded the plane with me in the first place.

But how do you do France eating no sugar?

How do you say no to those beautiful pain au chocolats or the mille feuilles?  Tell me?

I am the first to admit that I have fully committed to every bite I have taken on this trip and I've enjoyed every single one of them, however my body is now starting to tell me off.  It's had enough.  So on this particular day...I listened.

2 reasons made us stop outside this tiny little bar located over on Left Bank.

The sight of fresh oysters (huitres) in the window and the very handsome and distinguished looking French gentleman looking in through said window.  What's a girl to do?

No surprises that we entered said establishment.  Propped ourselves up at the table by the front window.  Then relaxed back, people watched, drank bubbles and gobbled up delicious huitres from Normandy.

What else do ladies do during the week?

(how am I ever going to go back to reality?!)

Be warned.  I am about to make a very bold statement here.

Eating at Yard, in the 11th Arrondissement, been to date the best meal I have eaten in all of France.

I may even be so bold as to say it has been one of my favourite meals EVER.

Yes, you heard me correctly.  There are not many places (and I've eaten at many) where every single plate put in front of me has made my taste buds sing.  On top of that, add amazing service.

But I found it right here, in an almost derelict street in an off-the-radar neighbourhood. A street you may never normally walk down intentionally, only by accident.

This place is definitely worth the effort to find.

Today was a big day for the little ladies.

Having already walked over 20km (and I'd just like to add that we had done 19km the day before....are we amazing or what?!) and having already treated ourselves to one of the best mille feuilles so far, we decided we needed another treat.  Yes, this treat also came in the form of food.  Surely you're getting the gist of this holiday by now so this should be no surprise?

If you ever head over to Paris, and in particular the Marais area (really, why wouldn't you?) then you need to do yourself a favour and eat HERE!